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Offline stringfrenzy
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« Reply #10 on: December 09, 2006, 05:16:19 am »
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Great tip with the wax.

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« Reply #11 on: December 31, 2006, 03:51:34 pm »
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yes parafin works great...you could also use logwood trap die and then coat with parafin...it keeps traps rust free and has the nice black color

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« Reply #12 on: December 31, 2006, 04:58:46 pm »
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THANKS FOR THE TIPS

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« Reply #13 on: December 31, 2006, 06:55:44 pm »
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Rust Reduction via Electrolysis By Mark Van Ditta, 

Cleaning badly rusted metal does not have to be hard work. Since red rust (ferrous oxide) formation is an electrochemical process (oxidation), all we need to do is reverse this process. During oxidation, electrons are given up by iron and combine with oxygen. The result is ferric oxide (black rust). When ferric oxide oxidizes, ferrous oxide is formed (red rust). What we need to do "reverse oxidize" the red rust (reduction); hence, donate electrons to the ferrous oxide.

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Black Rust - [sorry link died]

----------
How To Achieve Forge Black Iron Rustproofing and Metal Finish


This metal finish is known among afficianadoes of forged iron metal work as FORGE BLACK, and it derives from a technique dating back over a thousand years. This method is an attractive finish and a very early method for the rust proofing of iron.

The metal is first meticulously cleaned with 00 emery cloth or steel wool, then washed with denatured alcohol, shellac grade. This is to remove all grease and dirt. Do this with clean cloth or paper gloves on so that further grease from handling is not deposited.

As soon as this is dry, coat with linseed oil by wiping, brushing or spraying. Immediately heat over the forge with air flow applied. This adds free carbon to the burning oil, and an enamel like finish will eventually result, once the oil is all burned off. Do not heat above black. When the piece stops smoking, remove, cool, and wipe with a cloth to remove free soot. This leaves a good black finish and has been used for ages as an initial treatment for iron, with defeat of rust as its main ideal.

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iron black


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« Last Edit: January 22, 2009, 10:59:20 pm by oRo »
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« Reply #14 on: January 01, 2007, 07:47:29 pm »
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The metal is first meticulously cleaned with 00 emery cloth or steel wool, then washed with denatured alcohol, shellac grade. This is to remove all grease and dirt. Do this with clean cloth or paper gloves on so that further grease from handling is not deposited.


just one question...where did they get shelac grade denatured alcohol 1000 years ago??? Undecided

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« Reply #15 on: January 01, 2007, 08:10:04 pm »
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Used lye maybe, soap and water.?

I don't think it matters much how you clean the metal for the burning of oil. I think he is describing a modern approach to an old treatment.

Another way is to just heat the metal and rub it with bone. This will surface harden the metal and prevent rust about like the oil burn-off. You could just buy/make some powered carbon and do the same thing, rub it on to the heated metal.

Bees' wax is my favorite goo to use for sealing.

I guess anything important I would let a restoring facility take care of it or sell it as is and let the new owners figure it out.


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« Reply #16 on: January 02, 2007, 05:51:39 pm »
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I hear you oRo...Smiley...anything important I'd sell also...hehehe...if you can't eat it or screw it...lol...Sell it...hehehe

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« Reply #17 on: January 03, 2007, 08:16:34 pm »
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umm, recently I found an old oven door that is horendously rusted very badly, but I don't know if the distilled water will help it return back to its former glory.

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Offline toolboxdiver
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« Reply #18 on: January 04, 2007, 10:09:14 am »
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Quote:Posted by metal_inspector
umm, recently I found an old oven door that is horendously rusted very badly, but I don't know if the distilled water will help it return back to its former glory.


you could try electrolosis on that...Smiley

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« Reply #19 on: January 04, 2007, 04:02:45 pm »
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I'll try it then If I can.

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