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Offline PgillTopic starter
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« on: September 05, 2010, 05:16:48 am »
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Hi everyone,

Ultrasonic cleaners are very expensive to buy, does anyone have any idea if they can be made by the average guy? If so does anyone have any diagrams, drawings, tutorials on their making.

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« Reply #1 on: September 05, 2010, 07:55:17 am »
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Ultrasonic cleaning is a means of removing dirt and surface contamination from intricate and/or delicate parts using powerful high frequency sound waves in a liquid (water/detergent/solvent) bath.

An ultrasonic cleaner contains a power oscillator driving a large piezoelectric transducer under the cleaning tank. Depending on capacity, these can be quite massive.

A typical circuit is shown below. This is from a Branson Model 41-4000 which is typical of a small consumer grade unit. The H and N are Hot and Neutral of the 115 VAC line. WARNING: Line connected input. Use isolation transformer for safety when troubleshooting.

           R1        D1
 H o------/\/\-------|>|----------+
         1, 1/2 W  EDA456         |
               C1         D2      |
          +----||----+----|>|-----+
          |  .1 uF   |  EDA456    |  2 
          |  200 V   |      +-----+---+ T1      +---+------->>------+
          |    R2    |     _|_ C2      )::  o 4 |   |               |
          +---/\/\---+     --- .8 uF D ):: +----+   |               |
          |   22K          _|_ 200 V   ):Sad         +               |
          |   1 W           -      1 o ):Sad          )::           _|_
          +-----------------+---------+ :Sad O        ):: L1        _x_ PT1
          |           R3    |        7  :Sad          )::            |
          |      +---/\/\---+   +-----+ :Sad 5       +               |
         C \|    | 10K, 1 W     |    F ):: +---+    |               |
     Q1 NPN |--+-+--------------+  6 o )::     |    |               |
         E /|  |  D3     R4       +---+        +----+------->>------+
          |    +--|<|---/\/\--+  _|_
          |           47, 1 W |  ---       Input: 115 VAC, 50/60 Hz
          |                   |   |        Output: 460 VAC, pulsed 80 kHz
 N o------+-------------------+---+


The power transistor (Q1) and its associated components form an self excited driver for the piezo-transducer (PT1). I do not have specs on Q1 but based on the circuit, it probably has a Vceo rating of at least 500 V and power rating of at least 50 W.

Two windings on the transformer (T1, which is wound on a toroidal ferrite core) provide drive (D) and feedback (F) respectively. L1 along with the inherent capacitance of PT1 tunes the output circuit for maximum amplitude.

The output of this (and similar units) are bursts of high frequency (10s to 100s of kHz) acoustic waves at a 60 Hz repetition rate. The characteristic sound these ultrasonic cleaners make during operation is due to the effects of the bursts occuring at 60 Hz since you cannot actually hear the ultrasonic frequencies they use.

The frequency of the ultrasound is approximately 80 kHz for this unit with a maximum amplitude of about 460 VAC RMS (1,300 V p-p) for a 115 VAC input.

WARNING: Do not run the device with an empty tank since it expects to have a proper load. Do not touch the bottom of the tank and avoid putting your paws into the cleaning solution while the power is on. I don't know what, if any, long term effects there may be but it isn't worth taking chances. The effects definitely feel strange. At high enough power levels, it could indeed pulverize bones as described below. Whether that could happen with the typical small ultrasonic cleaner, I don't know and am not about to find out!

    (From: BIll Perry (perry.williamr@tacamo.navy.mil).)

    "While stationed on board the now-decommissioned submarine USS Hawkbill (SSN-666), I pondered this as well. One of my senior shipmates related a story of a sailor who had done that very act on his previous submarine. The guy put his feet it the cleaner while it was powered on. He remarked that it felt very good and relaxing. After a few minutes, he pulled his feet out, and as soon as he stood up and applied his full bodily weight on his feet, all the bones in his feet had shattered. He got permanent disability from it. Apparently, it had rattled his bones apart. Wow!"

Where the device doesn't oscillate (it appears as dead as a door-nail), first check for obvious failures such as bad connections and cracked, scorched, or obliterated parts.

To get inside probably requires removing the bottom cover (after pulling the plug and disposing of the cleaning solution!).

CAUTION: Confirm that all large capacitors are discharged before touching anything inside!

The semiconductors (Q1, D1, D2, D3) can be tested for shorts with a multimeter (see the document: Basic Testing of Semiconductor Devices.

The transformer (T1) or inductor (L1) could have internal short circuits preventing proper operation and/or blowing other parts due to excessive load but this isn't kind of failure likely as you might think. However, where all the other parts test good but the cleaning action appears weak without any overheating, a L1 could be defective (open or other bad connections) detuning the output circuit.

Where the transistor and/or fuse has blown, look for a visible burn mark on the transducer and/or test it (after disconnecting) with a multimeter. If there is a mark or your test shows anything less than infinite resistance, there may have been punch-through of the dielectric between the two plates. I don't know whether this could be caused by running the unit with nothing in the tank but it might be possible. If the damage is localized, you may be able to isolate the area of the hole by removing the metal electrode layer surrounding it to provide an insulating region 1/4 inch in diameter. This will change the resonant frequency of the output circuit a small amount but hopefully not enough to matter. You have nothing to lose since replacing the transducer is likely not worth it (and perhaps not even possible since it is probably solidly bonded to the bottom of the tank).

When testing, use a series light bulb to prevent the power transistor from blowing should there be a short circuit somewhere (see the document: Troubleshooting and Repair of Consumer Electronic Equipment) AND do not run the unit with and empty tank.

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Offline PgillTopic starter
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« Reply #2 on: September 16, 2010, 01:25:15 pm »
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Seldom,

Thanks for this..... Sorry for taking so long to reply, but I was not notified for some reason of your reply  Angry

I did not realize that these instruments were so intricate. I will have to see what parts I have already, and what I would still need to buy... And then see if I can make one  Undecided It's been a long time since doing projects of this type and size......

Thanks again, If I manage, I will let you know  Wink

God bless
Peter
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Offline charlotte49er
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« Reply #3 on: November 30, 2010, 04:37:27 pm »
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2 words, Harbor Freight.  They have just about the lowest cost units I have seen.  You have to be careful on the solution you use.  Some solutions are made for Gold and can lead to damage if you use them on silver.  I wouldn't be surprised if they were on sale this month.  

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The 1 Pint unit Reg. $39.99 is on sale for $24.00.  The 2.5 Liter unit, Reg 79.99 is on sale for $69.99.  6oz Ultrasonic cleaning powder (Not for use on Aluminum or Magnesium) is $4.99.

Hope this helps.  Charlotte49er



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Offline PgillTopic starter
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« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2010, 12:04:37 am »
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Hello Charlotte,

Thanks for the information..... These machines are great for gold and silver which is the main thing I would like to clean... I will go and check the site out... Thanks


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« Reply #5 on: December 03, 2010, 05:47:45 am »
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Question regarding ultrasonic cleaning.
I find alot of older pennies that have a green coating on them,don't know if its calcium or what but sure would like to clean
them up without damaging them.
Last find was a 1869 Indian head one cent and it has this green coating on it as well.

I know theres info on cleaning coins here but none of them seem to go in to very good detail on cleaning of these types of coins.

I know some of you fellers have played with different methods of cleaning over the years and found what does and doesn't work.
Please share your secrets with the rest of us so our treasures[coins] can look as nice as yours.

Come on don't be shy,please share your methods[tips& tricks] with the rest of us rookies.

             V-burgh

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Offline charlotte49er
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« Reply #6 on: December 03, 2010, 06:18:20 am »
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Soak them in a solution of White Vinegar and a little (1/4 teaspoon) of table salt.  This make a VERY weak solution of Hydrochloric acid.  Depending on hows badly they are corroded it may take a 3 to 30 minutes.  Take it/them out and rinse then wipe off.  Copper will start to corrode in a very short time and return to the brown color.  This will clean up most everything on a penny.  There is a spray that you can coat copper once you shine it up that will keep it nice and bright.  (It's like $30/spray can and I forget the name of it.)  Search on-line and I'm sure you can find it. 

Don't mess with rubbing pennies with ketchup (it will do about the same thing as soaking) but it's messy.  It's best that the copper not touch each other.  For one thing, the pennies won't come clean and it seems to excellerate the green patina.  I usually get a plastic tray and lay out the pennies.  The mix up the vinegar solution and pour it in slowly. 

Some people like to tumble then, but I feel that it wears the coins.  I have never tried the vinegar solution in a Ultra Sonic cleaner.  If you do, try it on a pre-1983 copper penny that is not worth anything. 

I deal in US copper and silver coins for their scrap value.  It can be tough to see a date on a penny until it has been cleaned sometimes. 

I hope this helps. 49er

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