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Offline GoldDigger1950
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« Reply #30 on: May 23, 2010, 09:07:14 pm »
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This is the iron I use for transfer. It has a Teflon(Tm) shoe and a slight curvature to the face which makes it easy to be very precise in placing the iron exactly where you want it.

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http://www.monokote.com/accys/topr2100.html


You could also try a travel iron. The big household irons are just too easy to damage the paper. Scorching the paper makes it harder to remove.

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It's all about that moment when metal that hasn't seen the light of day for generations frees itself from the soil and presents itself to me.
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« Reply #31 on: May 23, 2010, 09:57:57 pm »
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Mucho thanks for the tip, I'll order meself one very soon.

Take care,
Dennis

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Offline Foiled Again
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« Reply #32 on: June 13, 2010, 05:04:59 am »
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Thanks guys, for all the info on here Ive often wondered how the boards were made I plan on trying this as it looks much easier and quicker than perforated boards. Foiled

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« Reply #33 on: June 15, 2010, 12:50:05 pm »
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hi
iv'e been making circuit boards for about 30 years and in that time  i've tried just about every method of etching and etchant there is. I used to use ferric chloride but it is messy, corrosive,staining and not environmentally friendly. I have been using the hydrochloric acid/hydrogen peroxide and laser printer method for the past few years. The HCl/H2O2 mixture is cleaner and more environmentally friendly. To dispose of the waste if you add sodium carbonate to it you end up with salt, water and some copper carbonate. (careful adding the sodium carbonate it fizzes a lot)
You do not need to use a strong mixture of HCl, if you use a more dilute solution it just takes longer and there are less fumes.
Almost any mixture works.
One paper that works is the shiny backing paper off printer labels. It does not require soaking and you can reuse it. It seems to work better with some printers than others. Again almost any paper, except the plastic coated inkjet papers, will work. I've used ordinary photocopier paper for circuits that don't have fine tracks with success.
I would encourage people to try it and see what works for you

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Offline mikebg
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« Reply #34 on: July 27, 2010, 02:21:47 pm »
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A posting in geotech forum 2 days ago:

"Looking for someone who can manufacture & assemble PCB Boards
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I am looking for an individual or company who can manufacture and assemble PCB boards according to my needs.

I have all the necessary files and am looking for a reliable and affordable manufacturer. Country / origin of the manufacturer is not important.

All PCBs are for metal detectors and related gear: For example the Hammerhead PI.

You can contact me at
webmaster@thunting.com
to discuss further details.

Thank you,

Christian
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« Reply #35 on: July 27, 2010, 02:25:33 pm »
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That's our Boss! Ha Ha!    Grin

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Offline mikebg
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« Reply #36 on: July 27, 2010, 02:38:53 pm »
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Then let we help him!

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Offline jakub
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« Reply #37 on: January 14, 2011, 03:37:11 am »
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Anyone tried the sponge method?


It apparently works with paper towels too.

I think atmospheric oxygen speeds up the process.

Another tip, when using the laser printer method I found much better results when the underside of the board was heat insulated when using an iron, i.e. when the board was sitting directly on the table and I was ironing over it, the heat went into the table and the results were crap, but when I put some layers of cloth or paper onto the table first, the results were superior.

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Offline turtlebowl
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« Reply #38 on: January 28, 2011, 12:30:19 am »
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Precisely my dear Watson!

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