Batteries and other modifications

Well as being discussed on many forums the Whites TDI SL is A Marvel of modern Electronic, But A few Owners have started asking questions about the Battery system and the NIMH pack gives you about 2200mah and the Voltage is around 11.29 when taken off the charger and about 11.2 after an hours rest, Where as the TDI Pro uses A 14.4 Volt Lion Battery which give the TDI Pro a Little more Depth and lasts all Day.

Where As with the TDI SL has a Battery Voltage of 11.2 v it looses A Little Depth compared to the TDI Pro because The TDI SL Has Noise Reduction Filters that also Take A Little bit more Power away, and although the Difference is around about an inch +/- where the TDI SL suffers is that the Batteries are said to Last 5 or 6 hours but some claim 4 to 5 hours,
R&B make a 2900mah lion pack for it which is good but as of yet there have been no tests been fully published to Date,

I have some AA's rated at 2600 or 2650mah and at 1.38 volts X 8 =11.04 volts, But I have seen a mod that by using 9 of them will give me 12.42 volts which is good because that will put back the power lost TO the Noise Filters,
Here's what makes the TDI SL special is that you can use it in Town or under Over head wires or near Towers and electric fences Due To EMI, Where as the TDI Pro Struggles a Little bit and the GPX5000 Is Next to Useless and at 4 X the price of the TDI SI Makes it Not A Viable Machine to Buy because it Looses Depth because you have to Turn the Gain Way Way Down in Order to get it to Run Smooth.

Anyway Back to the SL Once the Voltage is restored back up to around 12 Volts it is All But Equal to the TDI Pro and the More voltage  you can put Back the Better Along with increasing the Run Time. anyway that's The thing I am working on At Pressent.

RR

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		Quote:			Posted by golddustcarl
	I don't have any of those machines, so you will have to keep us posted with your further research. Looks like you have done quite a bit already. By the way, (not knowing about your background) do you have access to a dvm? If you do and know how to use it, take a current ( not voltage) reading of the current that the detector uses when it is on and tuned in. This will help greatly in determining battery selection. Dusty Carl

I Own the Top of the Range Fluke 189 which they have replace with the Newer Fluke 289, Basically the Same DMR, It has A 5 digit Read Out and it is Accurite to 0.0001 volts, The Current Draw According to Whites is 0.460mah and the Factory NiMh pack is 2200mah and I have some Energizer NiMh AA's that are 2650mah and that works out to 5.76 Hours.

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		Quote:			Posted by golddustcarl
	Nice equipment there RR. I am jealous. You are using the manufactures mah draw which is not a direct indication of current draw as mah is a value the battery companies use to determine useful life a battery, and 1 mah is how long a battery would take to drop to 70% of voltage rating drawing 1ma. Suppose you had a piece of equipment that could work efficently down to 60% of full charge. To get a more accurate value for the specific machine you are using, a current reading (and a little math) could provide you with more accurate information. What do you think? Dusty Carl

Well because of the battery system it uses I have no way of getting the probes down to the Contacts until I modify one of the Dry Cell packs, The Voltage is unregulated with a max of some say 16 volts Reg Sniff of late has been quoting 18 volts and he is the person who has been doing a lot of research on the TDI's,

The Warning Light is supposed to come on at 8.7 Volts

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I need to hear more about why a lithium battery craps out when charged @ 90 degree f or above. I use a lot of them in my work and they aren't cheap.

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