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Offline viswanathmarachiTopic starter
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« Reply #10 on: May 17, 2012, 11:38:11 pm »
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Hi GD,

Its a new machine which I built. The IRF840 smoked when I turned it on for the first time.. I replaced IRF840 and some experts here suggested to change the 556 and check some other parameters.  Now I am doing what they have suggested..  I never had any sound on my machine in the beginning also...


waiting for your reply...

-Viswanath

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Offline GoldDigger1950
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« Reply #11 on: May 18, 2012, 06:20:28 am »
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Quote:Posted by viswanathmarachi
Its a new machine which I built.

When the IRF840 smoked, was the coil hooked up or was it open circuit? It makes a difference. The 556 is not likely to be the issue unless the timing components are either the wrong value or in some cases in the wrong spot. Look it over carefully and also check for solder bridges. Stray solder between components that should be separated is a common cause for a new project not to work.

Did you use a PC board or did you do point to point wiring?

So many unknowns about your project, mate. There are lots of questions you need to answer before a truly qualitative suggestions can be offered.

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It's all about that moment when metal that hasn't seen the light of day for generations frees itself from the soil and presents itself to me.
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Offline viswanathmarachiTopic starter
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« Reply #12 on: May 21, 2012, 01:46:27 am »
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Hi Gold Digger,

Thank you for the reply.  And your reply has given me lots of ideas on how to ask a question very meaningfully. 

When the IRF840 has smoked the coil was connected.

I have checked for shorts but I haven't find any..  but still I will check it again and again as the chances of missing one is more.

I have etched a PCB on my own.  I am attaching  pictures of the circuit front and back..

I have changed the 556 and tried the results are same.. 

Please advice me on the speaker connections.. I have used the red and black wires for speaker connection.. the wire with know is left un attached anywhere... am I wrong here?

I have also attached the PCB diagram which I used to etch the board.

YOUR KIND HELP IS GREATLY RESPECTED.... THANK YOU FROM DEEP INSIDE...

-Viswanath



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Delta Pulse PCB.pdf
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Offline GoldDigger1950
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« Reply #13 on: May 21, 2012, 03:52:48 am »
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OK. Thanks for the pictures. We have much to do.

First, the speaker wires are not polarized so either way is fine.

Speaking of polarized, all ICs, all transistors, all diodes and all electrolytic (and tantalum) capacitors are polarized and must be oriented correctly. Verify that they are. The mylar and ceramic capacitors are not polarized nor are resistors. Make sure the part numbers you used for any transistor substitutes have the same pin orientation by using Google to download their spec sheets. While you're at it, verify that each item is in the correct location. Etching your own board is very good but there are no cute little numbers on it to tell you where things go.

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« Reply #14 on: May 21, 2012, 09:11:55 am »
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Xavier slightly getting off the topic but what interface to your sound card did you use for that scope program ?
looks like it could be usefull for checking low frequency circuits.
Could be handy to be able to say to people use this program and interface and look at this "waveform' on your MD pcb.

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Offline GoldDigger1950
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« Reply #15 on: May 21, 2012, 11:16:22 am »
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Quote:Posted by 6666
Xavier slightly getting off the topic but what interface to your sound card did you use for that scope program ?
looks like it could be usefull for checking low frequency circuits.
Could be handy to be able to say to people use this program and interface and look at this "waveform' on your MD pcb.

It is within the range of 90% of your needs for metal detectors. They mostly work on audio frequencies. Not sound pressure but electromagnetic and electronic frequencies.

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Offline xavier
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« Reply #16 on: May 22, 2012, 01:15:47 pm »
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Hi 6666

I have sent you a PM regarding the PC scope and yes it is a good thing to have, even when you do have a real scope this one comes in very handy when you are out in the field. 

Hi viswanathmarachi

Unfortunately the copper side of the board is not very clear so we can't magnify it to see if there is a problem on one of the tracks and speaking of witch you can take a photo of the board (but use a tripod to do this) then zoom in on the photo (using any programme on your PC capable of photo editing) this sure makes life easier to find shorts on the board. One other thing when using 1% resistors the colour code is not the same as for 5% components for example a 10K resistor in 5% is Brown, Black, Orange in a 1% it is Brown, Black, Black, Red. Hope this will help a bit.
   
All the best
Xavier

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So many questions so little time

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