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Offline wil
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« Reply #230 on: March 01, 2010, 10:39:56 am »
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Any chance you could share the PCB artwork of the two sided board?

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Offline steaua581
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« Reply #231 on: March 01, 2010, 02:35:49 pm »
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hello
i was trying to find the STTH1210D diode.....my question is can i use BYT12P-1000 instead? Sorry meaby you have mentioned that somewherre but i guess i missed it....
Are therre any mods i should be aware of besides the actual complete project posted by Eugene? If any can you please point those to me ?
thanx
regards
Marius

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« Reply #232 on: March 01, 2010, 07:28:38 pm »
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Quote:Posted by NIKOS
i like the part [no return] 

That's the part i don't like.

Quote:Posted by mafarid
NO NO ?159.00 is wasting money for ?15 circuit !!!!

The price is not just for the circuit, but I know what you mean. I'm sure you save a lot by building it yourself. What depth do you get on your machine?

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Offline mafarid
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« Reply #233 on: March 02, 2010, 02:34:06 am »
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If I can complete my DP, its performance is same whit economic one.

What make a circuit? Schematic, Circuit board and some electronic part. If tow circuit board have same schematic and same electronic component they should have same result.  In addition, one other viewpoint with my own experience demonstrates that something in kit format has weak performance than the completed one.  So DIY


dear steaua581

you can replace STTH1210D with BYW29 without any problem.



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« Reply #234 on: March 02, 2010, 02:35:20 am »
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Quote:Posted by mafarid
If I can complete my DP, its performance is same whit economic one.

What make a circuit? Schematic, Circuit board and some electronic part. If tow circuit board have same schematic and same electronic component they should have same result.  In addition, one other viewpoint with my own experience demonstrates that something in kit format has weak performance than the completed one.  So DIY


I see. If you ever get your detector to work, do post the test results. Which kit format did you find to be weaker than the "completed detector"? I assume by "complete detector", you are referring to one which you buy the individual components and then assemble it yourself from scratch. Is the stronger performance of the "completed detector" due to better quality components or better build quality or some other reason?

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« Reply #235 on: March 02, 2010, 04:11:41 am »
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 Dear Hobbyist

As my knowledge if you find one circuit that sold in kit format (not only PCB), it is just for educational purpose because if you are not a beginner you construct your circuit yourself and do not waste your time(=money ) just for soldering a PCB. Soldering price for circuit like DP is very low in manufacturing line less than 0.5$.

If you buy a kit, you should assemble it and then tune it. It looks easy but it is not.
In assembling, you should know electronic parts, its values, passable polarity and finally good soldering.
If one is wrong all circuit in optimistic condition do not work.
Tuning is another problem. A good tuner should have one or both of these conditions:
1) Experiment:  it is valuable part of all works
2) Measurement instruments: they usually are expensive and you should know how use them.

Somebody says DP can detect a coin at last in 45 cm but I know one who achieve 65 cm with a little modified DP, a full normal construct DP in here cost 120 $ but this gay?s DP sold in 250 $.

Another example is stuart I, it is designed in 198? You can buy its kit and if you adjust it nice, you can reach at last a coin in 18 cm but my modified stuart I detect a coin in 28 cm. (but take 2 week)
In commercial ready detectors manufacturer try to final produces have maximum passable performance with minimum passable price but in a kit they usually try to final produces have easy as passable for assembling for user because of educational purpose then minimum passable price and at final acceptable performance.
If you do not have enough experience in electronic, especially in metal detectors do not waste your time and money for a kit Buy completed one.


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« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 06:00:00 pm by mafarid »
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« Reply #236 on: March 02, 2010, 04:32:57 am »
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Dear Mafarid,

Thank you for your very detailed explanation and depth data. I now know what you mean: your advise is for me to buy a ready-made detector.That is what I had intended to do (and I still intend to buy a completed PI detector), and I saw the attractive low prices of those PI designs. I am not a mechanical engineer...so I do not make my own car. I am also not an electronics expert, so I know it will be a real waste of time and money to make my own detector because I don't know how to do so Smiley
 
My friend runs an electronics school and 2 tv/stereo repair shops. I have seen oscilloscopes and many other types of calibration/testing machines in his school, and I'll ask him if he's capable of making and tuning a PI detector for me. The cost of the parts is very cheap, and if he succeeds, the machine can be used as a spare. I will still buy a commercial ready-made PI detector for serious uses. Thank you again and good luck on your PI detector!

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« Reply #237 on: March 02, 2010, 09:40:13 am »
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Hi

My friends I captured this signals from pin 2 of LF357.those signal show that coil sense metal parts but in output of LF357 (pin 6), I could not find anything useful.
What is mean of these signals?
It is impassable that LF357 was ill because I changed all active components (transistor, IC and diode) of circuit.

Can anyone paste shape of DP?s LF357 output signal?

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Offline hesamavr
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« Reply #238 on: March 02, 2010, 10:26:57 am »
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in my failed previous DP circuit, I find the LF357 little warm, are you find it warm, also?
if I could get the good result from the new circuit, I will post critical signals for all.

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« Reply #239 on: March 03, 2010, 02:59:30 am »
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Yes, LF357 was warm a little! But why?  Shocked Shocked Shocked
I think warming of LF357 is not normal. Huh?
 I do not have another LF357 to replace, so is it passable for anyone who has ready DP test this problem?


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