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Offline MagnetManTopic starter
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Gary's Pulse Induction
« on: May 24, 2010, 01:36:34 pm »
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Hi everyone,

I'm new to the forum and didn't want to hijack someone else's thread, so I decided to post information and pictures of my completed Pulse-1 as a new subject.

I'm just starting to learn how to use it, but I am already able to detect a 1" coin at a range of 8" to 10" using an 8" flat concentric coil.  The only additions I did to the circuit are a volume and headphone jack (highly recommended as it is easier to hear pitch changes in closed ear headphones) and a recharger jack.

This is my first detector, so I don't know any better, but I am very pleased with the results.  I have a jar full of rusty hardware that I have dug up from my backyard (following everyone's advice to learn my machine and dig all targets!)  Wink

I enjoy building electronics projects, so I am already gathering the parts for a Pulse-2.  I'd be happy to answer any questions I can and I'll be sure to let everyone know if I find anything interesting!

Thanks,
MM

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Offline xavier
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« Reply #1 on: May 24, 2010, 01:52:21 pm »
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Well that looks neat coil looks good too Clapp if I were you I'd close it all up and go out to have some fun with it  Great

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So many questions so little time
Offline Mudflap
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« Reply #2 on: May 24, 2010, 05:19:18 pm »
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Nice job Smiley  Nice layout on the coil. Good luck on detecting.


jim

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« Reply #3 on: May 24, 2010, 09:13:59 pm »
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Hi MM
thats a nice blank pcb, what process did you use to make it ?



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Offline MagnetManTopic starter
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Gary's Pulse Induction
« Reply #4 on: May 24, 2010, 09:42:59 pm »
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Quote:Posted by 6666
thats a nice blank pcb, what process did you use to make it ?


Thanks, 6666.  I used "Press-n-Peel" laser printer transfer paper.  It's a blue film that you run through a laser printer or photocopier with an image of the traces in reverse.  Then you iron it onto a very clean and slightly roughened copper clad board, etch it with ferric chloride, and remove the resist with a scouring pad.

The first picture is just before I began populating the board; soldering to a clean and shiny (unoxidized) surface is key to a good bond.

-MM

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« Reply #5 on: May 25, 2010, 06:29:00 pm »
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Thanks MM, I have not tried that film, its so expensive in australia , the only place we can buy it charges 3 times the cost in the states, and you only get half the sheets, looks like it works fine.

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« Reply #6 on: July 07, 2010, 07:13:33 am »
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I am currently playing with my Pulse-1 as well , a great project and Gary is very helpful

I see he has just announced a new board design is on the way and a Pulse-3 version coming soon as well





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Offline captainfizz
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« Reply #7 on: July 07, 2010, 07:55:13 am »
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Afraid I don't much about anything electronicly, but if you come up with a good I would be happy to test it underfire so to speak. I have been poster boy for 5 metal detector companies in a small way.  I have tested prototypes, for a few companies. Made some suggestions that were incorporated.  Hope it works,  Capt. Carl Fismer

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« Reply #8 on: July 07, 2010, 01:46:21 pm »
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How did you twist up that coil?

Did you use the two layers of Perspects or Plexiglass Idea?

.



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Offline MagnetManTopic starter
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« Reply #9 on: July 07, 2010, 02:22:27 pm »
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Hi Homefire,

I wrapped the coil the hard way.  With a disk slightly bigger than the finished coil beneath it and another disk the same as the inside diameter in the middle, I worked the wire around it as an open spool.  I used cyanoacrylate (super glue) about every quarter turn.  It took me several days to complete it.  Finally, I created an outer rim, glued it onto the first disk, filled the space with two part epoxy, and put another big disk on top.  Because I knew the inner diameter, I was able to safely cut out the middle portion so that the final shape was a washer, which is lighter than if it were solid.

I wound two more in a similar manner, but on these I temporarily glued stirring sticks to the center disk like spokes to hold the wire down.  If I were to do it again, I would have gone to the effort to create a jig similar to Gary's design.

The disks are made of 1/8" MDF (medium density fiberboard), which are reasonably light, rigid, and easy to cut.  I might suggest using it for the jig as well, with the only drawback being that it isn't transparent, but the added advantage of using the "spool" as the final housing.

-MM

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