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Offline atomicsocalTopic starter
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« on: April 24, 2010, 01:09:31 pm »
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Hell everyone,
I'm a newbie (first post) so don't be too hard on me! I am building a small sluice box based on a video I saw on google. I built a classifier (grizzly-ish) so the material is 3/16" when it hits the box. My question is, how high should I make the riffles when the material going over them is 3/16"? Right now i'm using 1/2 inch quarter round (not too good, i know) for the riffles. Any ideas on making decent riffles without welding? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I got a few buckets of dirt with blacksand from near an old mine, but I don't have the patience to pan all of it! Thanks.

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Offline GoldDigger1950
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« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2010, 04:55:53 pm »
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Riffle height will depend on the angle of your sluice and the water volume. Your overburden should fall over the riffles while keeping the heavier stuff in the mat. Have a look at louvered window coverings made in aluminum for some ideas on making a variable height riffle.

Manufacturers will tell you to use and angle of X but no greater than Y. An ideal sluice would allow you to change any of those variables with a minimum of fuss. But, nothing is ideal so a practical average is worked out and added to the design. Some sluice boxes come with replaceable riffles of different heights. You can make your own different sized riffles, as you might imagine, and deploy them as needed.

If you are trying to trap fine gold, the riffle you are using is probably all right. For small nuggets or gold in a matrix, use taller riffles. Precisely how tall is going to be up to you by experimentation based on environmental conditions wherever you are working.

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« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2010, 05:17:20 pm »
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have you seen this link?

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http://nevada-outback-gems.com/design_plans/DIY_hand_sluice/hand_sluice.htm




good luck

spy

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Offline atomicsocalTopic starter
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« Reply #3 on: April 25, 2010, 02:23:05 pm »
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Great info, thanks a bunch.
I'm building a multi-stage? It is small 38"x6 ". The 1st section rubber groove mat, 2nd expanded mesh over ribbed carpet then small rubber groove mat section finally ending with 4 riffles (1/2 inch quarter round, no mat underneath). Also I have the angled (round) end going toward the toward the water flow. Is this correct? I've seen examples of both ways. Thanks again.
Hey thanks for the link. I have seen that and sluice it's pretty sweet. Unfortunately, I have zero welding skills, so I was trying to keep it simple.

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« Reply #4 on: April 25, 2010, 02:49:19 pm »
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Quote:Posted by atomicsocal
Great info, thanks a bunch.
I'm building a multi-stage? It is small 38"x6 ". The 1st section rubber groove mat, 2nd expanded mesh over ribbed carpet then small rubber groove mat section finally ending with 4 riffles (1/2 inch quarter round, no mat underneath). Also I have the angled (round) end going toward the toward the water flow. Is this correct? I've seen examples of both ways. Thanks again.
Hey thanks for the link. I have seen that and sluice it's pretty sweet. Unfortunately, I have zero welding skills, so I was trying to keep it simple.


You want to disrupt the water flow and slow down the material coming over the riffles so the flat needs to be facing the source of the water.

You say you don't want to weld but what about drill and pop rivet? Use aluminum angle iron and rivet the riffles to the edges. If you do it right, you can make several removable sets of riffles of varying heights which can be removed and replaced like ladders.

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Offline atomicsocalTopic starter
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« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2010, 04:19:31 pm »
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Quote:Posted by GoldDigger1950
You want to disrupt the water flow and slow down the material coming over the riffles so the flat needs to be facing the source of the water.

You say you don't want to weld but what about drill and pop rivet? Use aluminum angle iron and rivet the riffles to the edges. If you do it right, you can make several removable sets of riffles of varying heights which can be removed and replaced like ladders.

I was wondering if I really need riffles (other than expanded metal or similar) for fine gold since it is pre classified (ala grizzly) to about 3/16. I have some 3/4" plastic square grid that's about 3/16" tall I was think about using over ribbed carpet as the end (last 12" or so) section, instead of riffles. The gold here in socal is probably gonna be smaller than 3/16" so I might not miss anything as long as I'm paying attention. The replaceable riffle section with ability  to adjust for different locations is definitely a great idea though. Thanks again to all.  Smiley
 

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« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2010, 04:36:52 pm »
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1/2" 45* pointind down stream will work. 

Space them out at 6 - 8 inches apart.

Get your water Speed/Volume so you see a good Hump of water going over them.

If you have 6 Riffles, the Goodies should be cought in the First Three.

 Wise



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Offline GoldDigger1950
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« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2010, 01:44:19 pm »
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Quote:Posted by atomicsocal

I was wondering if I really need riffles (other than expanded metal or similar) for fine gold since it is pre classified (ala grizzly) to about 3/16. I have some 3/4" plastic square grid that's about 3/16" tall I was think about using over ribbed carpet as the end (last 12" or so) section, instead of riffles. The gold here in socal is probably gonna be smaller than 3/16" so I might not miss anything as long as I'm paying attention. The replaceable riffle section with ability  to adjust for different locations is definitely a great idea though. Thanks again to all.  Smiley
 


There's a lot of good information here:

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http://www.blacksandbox.com/equipment-plans.cfm


Have a look at the Henry Henry Sluice Box here:

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http://webspace.webring.com/people/fw/wyogold/build_sluice.html


That last link is one of the absolute simplest sluices around and works like a champ!

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« Reply #8 on: April 27, 2010, 01:53:03 pm »
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Henry Poop Tubes work most well!

I've built more then a few of them. Grin

Kicks Butt when it comes to cleaning up your fines.

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