About coil /detector frequencies

		Quote:			Posted by Bugar
	Eugene52=since you are the MAN on the detector electronics, I have a question, probly some other folk would like to know about too. Allright ,some detectors-take Nautilus for instance, they have coil problems from time to time, and a detectorist has to send it to the factory for re-tuning,  the freq on these detectors is 14,  the same as on some models of whites, the whites has a large variety of sizes and types, the same for some other machines that have sometimes the same freq or very close, within .50 of a freq, say detector pro and some fishers, or tecknetics and i think some fishers,  allright what i'm wondering, since i am told the coils cannot be interchanged between makes- WHY???, for instance the whites coil dosen't have problems, the Nauty does, be nice if they would interchange,  is this due to the design of the  circuit, or is it just in the  wiring at the box, just would like to know,  you know electronics, and i know glass art, I know very little of electronics, not even enough to get myself in trouble, so I leave it alone, splice a wire or re-solder something, that's it= sooo, I' askin somebody that KNOWS, Thankya  Pard, Bugar

The Nautilus are great Relic machines made by a company called Tyndall Electronics . The circuit boards inside the metal Detector are good , but the problem is the way the search coil is designed !! It is not very shock proof . So what they did is put two adjustable resistors inside the metal detector to compensate for Search-coil balance changes due to shock . If your very rough on your search coil , like slamming it on the ground , you are going to have problems . So when it gets sent to the factory they open the case and re-tune it . If your Nautilus metal Detector is past the 2 year warranty just do it your self !!! See the image I posted :   

In answer to your other question . Before you start finding a Replacement search-coil , You need to first check your search coil for DC resistances . You might have 4 or 5 pin connector plug  . One pin is usually ground or shield and 2  pins are for the transmit coil . And the two left over pins are for the Recieve coil. Post your ohmeter readings here if you like !! A search-coil can be substituted if its resonance closely matches your metal detector and it contains no circuit board inside. There is a slight possibility a Whites Matrix 14 khz or Tesoro 14 khz cibola,vaquero coil might work , But no promises !!! Untill you post clear photos of your search coil here on this forum !!! ........I hope this helped you a little bit !.........Let us know what you plan to do.........Take care and have a Great Day............Eugene52

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Since the topic here seems to be search coils maybe someone can answer a question for me.
Im in the process of building a ROV and am wanting to mount a detector coil to it and have the actual detector in the control box for the ROV which means I would have to extend the cable to about 35 feet long will it still work or will the signal loss be to great with that long a cable?

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http://www.thunting.com/smf/index.php/topic,3436.msg24009.html#msg24009

I was hoping to use the cheepest possible detector so if it don't work I haven't destroyed a good detector. So it will probally be a VLF.

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http://www.thunting.com/smf/index.php/topic,3436.msg24425.html#msg24425

The camera and everything else will be mounted inside a PVC tube that is enclosed and water tight the detector coil would be mounted outside but the wire would probally be run back inside the tube to join all the other wires going up to the control box.

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http://www.thunting.com/smf/index.php/topic,3436.msg24430.html#msg24430

If I put the wires inside shrink tube before I run them back through the tube shouldn't that take care of the frequency issue?

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