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Offline Homefire
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« Reply #30 on: April 24, 2013, 02:00:24 pm »
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I found Contact Cement or Good ole Rubber Cement works fine.

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Offline xavierTopic starter
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« Reply #31 on: April 24, 2013, 03:45:37 pm »
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Epoxy molding the coil is still my preferred method but too expensive for prototype coils.

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Offline GoldDigger1950
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« Reply #32 on: April 24, 2013, 04:33:18 pm »
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Quote:Posted by xavier
I found a cheaper super glue and the problem seems to have gone away the funny thing is that it was made by the same manufacturer

There is a brand of super glue known as Future Glue which is the best since it is rubber based. Can even be used to glue a fan belt in an emergency.

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http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=364058&catid=184442&aid=338666&aparam=goobase_filler&device=c&network=g&matchtype=


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It's all about that moment when metal that hasn't seen the light of day for generations frees itself from the soil and presents itself to me.
Let's Talk Treasure!
Offline xavierTopic starter
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« Reply #33 on: April 24, 2013, 04:36:34 pm »
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Thanks GD and the price is about the same as what I pay here.

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Offline GoldDigger1950
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« Reply #34 on: April 24, 2013, 04:38:18 pm »
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You can probably locate some over there. I found a good supply of it in Australia in the $2 Shops. As far as I know, it's available globally. Bright yellow blister card is the easy way to find it in a store. Automotive stores carry it too.

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It's all about that moment when metal that hasn't seen the light of day for generations frees itself from the soil and presents itself to me.
Let's Talk Treasure!
Offline xavierTopic starter
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« Reply #35 on: April 24, 2013, 04:45:06 pm »
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I will have a look for it at my local hardware store.

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Offline pandoraguru
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« Reply #36 on: June 08, 2014, 12:01:14 pm »
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 Hello!

 I read this article and i remember it a good experience ,i want to share to you: if you are making coils with copper insulated PVC you can glued using ciclohexanona as a solvent for PVC using a brush, brushing all PVC surface couple time and give 24 hours to evaporated and consolidate the hole coil.

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Offline xavierTopic starter
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« Reply #37 on: June 09, 2014, 04:44:35 pm »
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Actually that's not a bad idea thanks for sharing that with us.

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« Reply #38 on: June 10, 2014, 03:39:14 pm »
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Hi Xavier,

Hope you get your coil going the way you like. I do not know exactly what type of detector you working with, but I see that you are using a very high inductance coil and  it has a lot of resistance. Hope you have a strong arm, 2 coils are going to weigh a lot.  Smiley 20 ohms say at 12 volts, gives you 600 ma of current. The electrical field generated will be diminished, and you will need a longer on time (slower switching speed) to go very deep.
If you are working with PI, I found that a DD coil provides little advantage other than there is no signal in the rX coil until you are over a target.
I once built a test fixture to test the advantages of different coil shapes. To eliminate any bias, I used the same coil for all tests by simply bending it to a new shape. I used the same target materials and sizes to test them. I also used a target position mechanism to position them near the center of the coils. I found that circular shapes had the most induction change over the various targets and positions. Following second was a square (not rectangular) coil.
If am going down the wrong road here please let me know.
golddustcarl

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A bad day at gold prospecting or metal detecting is better than a good day at work.

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GOLDDUST CARL
Offline xavierTopic starter
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« Reply #39 on: June 11, 2014, 11:32:44 pm »
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Hi Golddustcarl

Yes 6 and 6.5mH are the coils used on th TGSL 0.25mm wire, I found that on the VLF detector the most important thing is to have the coils running at the right frequency rather than the right inductance and on the PI it's the inductance that matters, so now I have a small setup with an oscillator hooked up to the scope and all that I need to do is connect the coil to it to see the frequency and of course I do it while winding the coil and I don't bother with the inductance anymore.

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