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Offline stang1968Topic starter
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« on: October 20, 2009, 12:14:56 am »
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I was reading about home made coils on this site recently and saw some specs that grabbed my eye...
Anyways I am using the stock 950 coil on my XLT and have been told once or twice that I may be running a bad coil. I'm not sure how to tell tell though. My symptoms are that I cannot adust the AC sens of the Pre Amp Gain without getting "TRACK", OVERLOAD, and +95 all the time. Even using the standard relic mode with no changes to the programming I'll get the +95 quite a bit.
Just for giggles, I tested the coil at the connector across the pins:
Pins 1-2: 111.8 Ohms
Pins 4-5: 1.8 Ohms

From what I read, my RX (Pins 1-2) should be closer to 122? Does this mean my coil has gone bad? If so, do I just contact White's? I know they have awesome customer service, but my XLT is going to have it's 9th birthday pretty soon...

I hope some one can answer my questions and shoot me a little advice. Thank you!

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Offline GoldDigger1950
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« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2009, 06:00:19 am »
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That amount of difference is almost insignificant and could be attributed to the meter itself. The lower the resistance scale, the more inaccurate it is. Nature of the beast. Also, resistance in coils can be tricky since the coil builds up a field which feeds back to the meter. I think your coil is fine electrically. However, do check the mechanical parts. Check the connector and the wires. Check the solder joints inside the connector. Then open the box and check the wires inside from the connector to the PC board. Make sure the connectors are clean on both sides - male and female.

All that being said, it may not be your coil at all. It sounds more like a battery problem to me. Operational amplifiers use a split power supply so your batteries may be marginal or the connectors might be an issue. Check them for corrosion and for electrical integrity. Like you, I tend to suspect the mechanical issues first with metal detector problems. Infant mortality in electronics happens very quickly in a machine's life cycle but mechanical happens any time.

Good luck.

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It's all about that moment when metal that hasn't seen the light of day for generations frees itself from the soil and presents itself to me.
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Offline stang1968Topic starter
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« Reply #2 on: October 25, 2009, 02:40:33 pm »
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I isolated the problem to the control box. I had stopped in at my local White's dealer to pick up a new lower rod and fiber nut, and mentioned the problem. He helped me bench test the machine with other coils, and in every case they acted the same way. He even discovered that if you tap the control box, it sounds off like a target is under the coil. Needless to say, I'll be sending the control box and my two coils in to White's for repair.

Thank's for your suggestion; it was appreciated.

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Offline jayr
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« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2010, 02:08:44 pm »
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Stang,

Did you get your detector fixed?  From your description, I was thinking the issue was with a loose conector on the main board.  I once did a major repair on  my XLT.  The people at Centreville Electronics were very helpful and accommodating in identifying and ordering the parts I needed.  I really appreciated this because most service centers discourage users from performing their own repairs.

Jay

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Offline stang1968Topic starter
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« Reply #4 on: April 12, 2010, 03:20:23 pm »
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I did get it fixed. I sent it into White's in Sweet Home. They replaced the logic board, screen, and arm cuff for about $40. I was thinking it was the connection at the mainboard as well; when i tapped on the control box, it would false... so every vibration was causing a false signal.
I haven't gotten to use it more than 4 times this year though- I moved, have been fixing up the house, and made room for a new baby.
Thanks for the reply.

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