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Offline vintageTopic starter
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ELCHEAPO-CHINA ,UNIT
« on: January 04, 2014, 03:27:14 am »
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HI TO ALL & Thankyou to those who have helped me get started on a DIY detector build..

I have been recomended to buy a Board & or Kit from Silverdog [when he re-opens his site]..

Whilts waiting for the kit etc I have ordered the wire[not delivered as yet] ..

So I thought I would make a Former-Winder for a DD coil for the TGSL..

I copied the set-up from here   

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http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showthread.php?15710-TGSL-Complete-Details


GREAT info in that D/load ..

SOME pics attatched [Hopefully]

CHEERS FROM OZ,,,,,,,,,,BARRY..

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Offline GoldDigger1950
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« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2014, 05:09:43 am »
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Interesting project. Keep posting your progress and thank you for sharing what you are doing.

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It's all about that moment when metal that hasn't seen the light of day for generations frees itself from the soil and presents itself to me.
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« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2014, 09:14:30 am »
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Good stuff.     Thinking about that kit my self. Shocked

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« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2014, 05:52:49 pm »
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Hi Barry

Here is the one that I made. The fist on is for a butterfly coil the second was the first coil former that I made and was for a DD coil. I'm planning to play around with butterfly coils a bit more when I get the chance.

All the best
Xavier

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« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2014, 09:45:40 pm »
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THANKS Fella's for the encouragement ,, & suggestions..

XAVIER ,Those are great formers ,I like the Idea of the 2x formers joined as you have done ,Question How do you count you turns ,?Huh? do you use a counter ,or just count in your head?Huh?..

Other than ''Super-glue'' what do you recommend for ,Would PVA wood glue be any-good?Huh? or a brush-on varnish ???for gluing the coils after winding ..

ITS A learnig proccess for me at this stage!!.

THANKS TO ALL ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,BARRY..

 

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« Reply #5 on: January 05, 2014, 02:10:30 am »
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Hi Barry

If you can get your hands on a mechanical counter that will do the job, just use a spring to trigger it. I'm busy with a programmable digital counter that I will post here when I'm done with it but don't hold your breath As for your coils you can use super glue (Very fast drying time) or varnish, one thing to remember is that your inductance will change once the glue or varnish has been applied due to the fact that you have removed the air surrounding the wire, I normally use dental floss to tie the coil tight, this allows me to remove a turn or two when done. A cool project would be to build yourself an inductance meter. 

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you can get the kit or build it from scratch.

Regards
Xavier

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« Reply #6 on: January 05, 2014, 01:20:04 pm »
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Quote:Posted by xavier
A cool project would be to build yourself an inductance meter. 

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you can get the kit or build it from scratch.


I bought a similar one on eBay already built with leads for $25 including shipping. It does a nice job. No case but power it up on a usb port and it is all ready to read.

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« Reply #7 on: January 06, 2014, 04:45:26 am »
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Quote:Posted by Mudflap
I bought a similar one on eBay already built with leads for $25 including shipping. It does a nice job. No case but power it up on a usb port and it is all ready to read.


HI,,MUDFLAP,, YES Thanks,, I see those on Ebay ,so its nice to know they work-well ..

I have 3x multimeters & one of those has inductance capability ,I am hoping it will be accurate enough,,IT has 4 ranges & in the 20mH setting has a resolusion of 10uH [accuracy]Huh?Huh?? If not I would buy as you have done ..

How accurate does it need to be..Huh???..as it seems the mH can alter after initial winding & binding ,Potting the mH alters Huh??

I appreciate you help ,,
CHEERS BARRY..



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« Reply #8 on: January 06, 2014, 01:43:10 pm »
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Hi Barry

The inductance will change no matter what you do but you can limit the damage. First you need to know that the better the inductance meter the better it is, second by tying your coil with dental floss (and no I don't have any shares in the company) you will be able to adjust you coil to the correct inductance. Your inductance will go up once it has been tied but you will no longer have loose wires in other words the inductance change will be less when you encapsulate the coil as there is less air around the wires, one more thing to remember is that when the resin (DON'T USE RESIN) use epoxy is wet you will see that your inductance is way high but once it has set it will come down again (you'll need to give it about 48 Hours) The reason why you should not use resin is because resin shrinks by 7% and epoxy only about 0.2% depending on the quality. Hope this will help you.

Regards
Xavier     

Posted on: January 06, 2014, 08:40:03 pm
One more thing that I should mention is to use a slow curing epoxy the reason being temperature will cause your coil to change shape.



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« Reply #9 on: January 06, 2014, 07:16:12 pm »
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Quote:Posted by xavier
when the resin (DON'T USE RESIN)


 Xavier. I thought most epoxies are resins or a polymer mixed with a resin. I agree on the slow cure epoxy. Better control, less heat, and usually stronger too.

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