coil case - Page 2

treasuremomo

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I'VE USED MANY BRANDS AND MODELS-TESORO, WHITES,GARRETT,FISHER,NAUTILUS,D-TEX,WILSON NEUMAN,ETC.

	Re: coil case « Reply #10 on: October 28, 2009, 12:42:00 pm »

I'm not sure about this, but I'd think about writing or calling a manufacturer of detectors and just asking them to sell you an empty shell of coil. They may or may not allow you to buy one, but it surly wouldn't hurt to try... Great

xavier, that's a real neat idea to make cardboard coil mold to pour resin in-- Great

--I've helped pour resin in coils-but we used plastic coil forms and just poured resin inside over the coil wires and it encapsulated them. I didn't know how to build coils-just helped with process a little. I would guess you've built several metal detectors yourself? That's something I'd like to learn to do--but I'm wondering how much electronics training would a person need to build his own detector?

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	Re: coil case « Reply #11 on: October 28, 2009, 01:21:36 pm »

Hi Tresuremomo

Sorry to disappoint you but this is the first metal detector that I am building and when I got going on this project I did not even know what was the use of a transistor but I did have basic soldering and diagram reading knowledge the rest came from the net so I guess that if I can do it any one can.

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	Re: coil case « Reply #12 on: October 28, 2009, 08:45:10 pm »

	Quote:	Posted by ehssanehs
thank you for your helps. it was great for me. I am going to check it.

I can give you a bit more technical info on epoxy/epoxy resin.

The catalyst or hardener is usually mekperoxide, which is a kind of alcohol and you might find it by that name... (or Google search mek peroxide) the resin is usually a mix of oleo-acids like maleic acid. There is another possibility, if you can get glycerine and citric acid, mixing these two (experiment with tiny amounts to get the right ratio) makes an acrylate plastic. You would do this outside in lots of air flow and use a mask and goggles. Acrylates produce tears, hence acrylate.... like *crazy glue.*

Another, (that I have not had success with) is sulphur and linseed oil. Linseed oil (flax seed) used to be boiled with sulphur to make marine glue, which never hardens, totally.

Or, if you have plaster of Paris, fill your coil head (with the coil mounted in it) with a thick slurry of plaster, let it harden, let it dry totally, then saturate with a water-proof varnish. This will be about the same weight as epoxy filled, maybe lighter. But it will hold the coils in place and be wet proof.

If you can get polyurethane paint AND mekperoxide, the mek should harden the polyurethane., as they have said above, too much mek makes too much heat, but also there is shrinkage, as it hardens. Note, gel-coat epoxy makes a self-glossing suface, as it dries/cures, it has paraffin wax which produces the shiny finish. It will work for casting, OK.

One observation: if you live in the middle of desert area, you are not likely to find boat building fiberglass stuff, nor for that matter car body repair kits..... some times these kits are old, and the resin has jelled, this I have found the hard way.

IF you can get naphthalene (moth balls,) you could try dissolving one in oil (do not heat and do not breath in fumes) then add a couple DROPS of mek, to see if it will harden. It is a cheap and simple experiment, and it MIGHT work.

Most of these are last resort methods, but when you do not have it, use something else, even tar, since the main idea is to keep the coils from moving ever again, once they are set correctly.

goldigger

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	Re: coil case « Reply #13 on: October 29, 2009, 02:42:38 am »

Hi Goldigger

Nice very nice now all we need is a bit of nitric acid Grin

must say that I did not think of the plaster of Paris I had cement in mind with a water proofing .

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Xavier

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	Re: coil case « Reply #14 on: October 29, 2009, 04:01:09 am »

thank you for giving your information.
but I don't know what is mek .
could you please tel ma about it?

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	Re: coil case « Reply #15 on: October 29, 2009, 08:06:10 am »

Mek short for mek peroxide is hardener it's all explained to you by goldigger Undecided

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	Re: coil case « Reply #16 on: October 29, 2009, 08:15:56 am »

thank you xavier.
I got it. sorry for my low attention. Embarrassed

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	Re: coil case « Reply #17 on: October 30, 2009, 05:39:47 pm »

	Quote:	Posted by xavier
Hi Goldigger Nice very nice now all we need is a bit of nitric acid must say that I did not think of the plaster of Paris I had cement in mind with a water proofing . Regards Xavier

Plaster is far lighter than cement and you can wet-proof it with any paint.

One I forgot, was deck-compound, which is a rubber compound that you may find in remote corners of the earth, but maybe not in dry countries, as it is used to WATERproof house decks, even a roof or two. It usually has a fiber, mixed into the rubber compound, to give it more dry strength.

If you want to make a mold, it can be made by making your model from wood, in the shape of the finished coil; sand it down so it is smooth; mix oil and paraffin wax, and dip it... let it soak, briefly, and wipe off the surplus; when the wood model has dried/set, set up a pan (shallow), big enough to hold the model plus about 4 to 6 cm diameter; pour in some plaster of Paris; set the model into it, when it is really thick, so the model has plaster flush to the model surface (the model, if rounded top, goes up-side down - anders kant bo); you may need a stick across the pan to hold the model down, so it is flush to the plaster surface; when the plaster is hard, remove the model, carefully; now, smooth the plaster mold and wax it, inside, with some of the wax mix, maybe 2 or 3 coats, if it soaks in. Now you have a mold that will take your resin, or plaster, without sticking and if carefully done, you may use it for several coils. put a couple of screws, into the wood model, so you can pull it out, cleanly.

When you do the coil, be sure the mold is perfectly level, pour in part of the resin (only mix part, with catalyst) and when it is nearly set, place the coils and glass cloth if you use it, and fill with the rest of the activated resin. You may have extra resin left over, have some other small project on hand to use it on, because it will harden, once the catalyst is in it.

If you use plaster, you make the mold just the same and make your model heavier/thicker, then pour plaster just as I have said to pour resin. After taking it out of the mold, if you use plaster, wrap the plaster product, before varnish, with light cotton cloth, any colour, and then varnish, resin, polyurethane, or lacquer.... the cloth might make it more durable.

Have fun.

goldigger

	Quote:	Posted by xavier
Hi Goldigger Nice very nice now all we need is a bit of nitric acid must say that I did not think of the plaster of Paris I had cement in mind with a water proofing . Regards Xavier

I hope you are joking about nitric acid.... I am not sure how to handle lead acetate, nor at what temperature it will melt, but it is very plastic-like and easy to make.... all you need is a lot of cow urine and some manure. Shocked

It is made in the same method as making potassium nitrate: the perforated lead biscuits are placed in a neat pile, covered with manure, and pour cow pee on, until the lead turns white, clear through... voila, lead plastic.

How is that for a juicy tidbit?

Remember, this person is in Iran, so it may be a do-it-the-archaic-way, or nothing. Right now, anyway.

goldigger

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	Re: coil case « Reply #18 on: October 31, 2009, 05:30:20 am »

All the more reason to help the poor fela Great

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	Re: coil case « Reply #19 on: October 31, 2009, 03:59:46 pm »

I think mek stands for methyl ethyl keytone, should be able to find it in a paint supply store. Good Luck!

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