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Offline cascaTopic starter
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« Reply #10 on: December 09, 2010, 03:17:05 pm »
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It is a 5 pin connector, but not the same as my BH 202 5 pin. Seems like a waste of pin to only have one pin reading ohms. I can send a picture. the box itself is pretty sturdy construction.                                                                       

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Offline GoldDigger1950
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« Reply #11 on: December 09, 2010, 09:31:30 pm »
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Casca, with 5 wires, the likelihood of you having two coils in the same loop are very high. It looks as if one of your loops is open and that will cause your solid tone. If you can open the connector body where it goes from the coil wire into the electronics box, you can inspect the wires to see if any are broken. One wire should be hooked up to a shield ground and the other two pairs should each go to a coil and read continuity. One of the wires may be broken.

I just found the datasheet for your machine. It is indeed a VLF/TR machine and does have two coils. Those models are notorious for their coil wires breaking. Do a search on MD3006 right here on this forum and see the comments. Not good.

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http://www.famoustrails.com/md3006_md7012.htm


Look near the end of the following thread at Geotech for pictures of the inside of your coil. Looks to me as if the Red and Blue wires are one coil and the Green and Yellow the other coil. The shield or common is the Black wire.

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http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11182


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« Last Edit: December 09, 2010, 09:40:25 pm by GoldDigger1950 »
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Offline cascaTopic starter
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« Reply #12 on: December 10, 2010, 12:07:14 am »
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Golddigger you are good dude. If I see it I can do it. Not sure I can make it work, but I know whats wrong. Will give some feedback once I get it apart and working or not. Thanks.

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Offline GoldDigger1950
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« Reply #13 on: December 10, 2010, 12:17:57 am »
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Good luck, my son. May the force be with you.

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« Reply #14 on: December 10, 2010, 12:24:29 am »
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Ty, have a few years under my belt with steel fabricating, tempering, hardening, casting......operating machines making things. Guess I'm gonna start learning detecting from the inside out. I haven't opened up the coil, which was my first guess as I don't want to damage whats inside. Now someone has done it, piece of cake. I did not see those post earlier when I figured out there was a search bar.......again thanks, hope this thing has some life in it, I would like to push it to its max.

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« Reply #15 on: December 10, 2010, 12:30:00 pm »
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Hey Golddigger, parts of the Famous Trails Detector 3006 is so cheap it looks like it would break if you breathed on it. But the coil and box is tough as nails. How did they get the coil bottom off, its taking me longer than I thought.

Im hoping its just a moisture problem in the coils, I can easily bake that out. I do not want to rewind anything. I dont have the math to figure out what the coil needs to be at. I read the coil has to match the box perfectly.

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Offline GoldDigger1950
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« Reply #16 on: December 10, 2010, 08:11:52 pm »
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Before you saw open the coil, take the connector apart on the end of the wire. That is the most likely spot for failure. The second most likely spot is where the wire goes into the coil body. I don't believe you'll have to rewind anything.

To get the coil open like they had it, you need a razor saw which you can get from any hobby shop or wood craftsman shop. Even Home Depot might will probably have one. Then you have to saw around the edge. Be careful. If you cut into the coil wire, you definitely WILL have to rewind it. Just progress very slowly around the edge and you should be all right. Do the cut at or above the seam line on the coil.

Regarding coil strength, you should reconsider your thinking. If the coil was so well made, you would not be having this problem.

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Offline cascaTopic starter
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« Reply #17 on: December 10, 2010, 10:48:46 pm »
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Make sense to me, will try the two spots on the wire first. Thanks again, I did not want to take that coil apart.

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« Reply #18 on: December 11, 2010, 12:36:13 am »
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Yep first place I looked was connector going into machine, looked like wired got twisted and was touching inside. Gonna do a little soldering this weekend, and get this thing out there. Half temped to just get new wire and rebuild the frame. Thanks GD, saved me from opening it up.

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« Reply #19 on: March 17, 2011, 08:50:11 pm »
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I can help yo fix that baby!
The potentiometers break very easily and the coil shield is iffy.
I replaced two pots in mine and ran wires to the PCB to take away the stress.
I have a 7012 and it works great now that it's fixed.

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