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Offline MetalMasterTopic starter
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« on: June 05, 2011, 09:49:33 am »
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 Here is a tip to add less falsing and more stability to your swings.

Ever wonder why some get more falsing and others less.

One unit works better than your buddies.

I got to pondering on this and thought what could be so different.

Then I thought, yes it was the human element.

It has to do with assembly. You wrap your coil wire and your buddy wraps his, there not the same.
Ones is always looser than the other. The human element.

 You swing easy sometimes with less falsing than other times. You swing harder falsing increases. So you wrap it tighter and soon it loosens, you tape it but not just right. You run it up the first section straight so the coil does not sense it as well. But after a while it loosens and here comes the falsing.

 The answer I found and increased the stability a great amount was this. After wrapping coil wire up the shaft I added two plastic wire ties at the top. One around the wire drawn tight over the other to form a loop. I then attached to this loop a medium heavy spring to draw tension on the wire at all times. The other end of the spring was attached at the control box.

 No more wire bounce and falsing has almost completely disappeared. Worked well on the ACE 250, ACE 350, and AT Pro we tested.

Simple but sometimes that is what it turns out to be that helps.

Hope you like this tip.  Welcome

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Offline 6666
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« Reply #1 on: June 05, 2011, 07:13:27 pm »
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Thanks for the tip, a picture would be most helpful.


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Offline Homefire
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« Reply #2 on: June 05, 2011, 07:18:55 pm »
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Tight wraps and at the coil end, ya need to tape the cable straight up the first 7" or so.

Don't let it wobble.

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« Reply #3 on: June 13, 2011, 05:50:15 pm »
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cheap but do not use performance-

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Offline Steveo
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« Reply #4 on: June 21, 2011, 06:32:28 am »
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I have been doing that for years.I've always used black mining tape " it"s free". I run the coil cable up the lower shaft about one foot then a couple wraps of black tape the rest of the cable is tightly wrapped around the upper shaft and wrapped with tape again,  no floppy cable and there is still just enough slack so the coil can be tilted down
I do like the spring tension that metalmaster rigged. Great

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Offline scoobylovesjazz
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« Reply #5 on: September 06, 2011, 04:27:42 pm »
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Quote:Posted by homefire
Tight wraps and at the coil end, ya need to tape the cable straight up the first 7" or so.

Don't let it wobble.


Quote:Posted by Shootin4Coal
I have been doing that for years.I've always used black mining tape " it"s free". I run the coil cable up the lower shaft about one foot then a couple wraps of black tape the rest of the cable is tightly wrapped around the upper shaft and wrapped with tape again,  no floppy cable and there is still just enough slack so the coil can be tilted down
I do like the spring tension that metalmaster rigged. Great


I did this and it worked great on my ACE-250. It was especially helpful at the beach where the 250 needs all the help it can get eliminating false hits.

Between doing this and following some setting "recipes" that I found online my second beach outing was much more productive than the first (and led to my first "find" - a clad penny).

Thanks for the great tip.

John

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Offline avision4u2liveby
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« Reply #6 on: September 06, 2011, 05:53:13 pm »
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I run my cable up the backside of the bottom section in a straight line for about 10" (taped in 2-3 spots with electrical tape) then start coiling the cable tightly up to the control box. I use electrical tape in many places along the way. I guess I need a pic to understand the spring thing, I have no cable to wobble or need a spring hooked to the way I do it. The only place with any play is at the bottom where the wire comes out of the coil itself. I leave a "loop"  enough cable so if the coil gets hit, or knocked around backwards it wont pull the cable out of the coil housing due to how tight I have the rest taped. At the very bottom, I use velcro straps, 2 of them so I can keep that loop from "wobbling". The velcro is so I can keep adjusting the tension on the loop. I swing pretty fast on my knockaround F2 so I adjust it about every 2-4 hours of use.

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Offline ghola
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« Reply #7 on: September 06, 2011, 08:29:18 pm »
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I put on some Scotch 70 self fusing silicone tape. It sticks to it self but not the metal detector. Ends up being like a custom fit 1 inch wide rubber band. It does not have a glue on it, so no gummy residue.  Also is a breeze to remove. Just a slit with a knife and its gone. Even good up to 356 degrees f. Metal detector may be had, but the tape will still be good.  Cheesy

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Offline avision4u2liveby
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« Reply #8 on: September 07, 2011, 12:51:37 pm »
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Quote:Posted by ghola
I put on some Scotch 70 self fusing silicone tape. It sticks to it self but not the metal detector. Ends up being like a custom fit 1 inch wide rubber band. It does not have a glue on it, so no gummy residue.  Also is a breeze to remove. Just a slit with a knife and its gone. Even good up to 356 degrees f. Metal detector may be had, but the tape will still be good.  Cheesy

 Great Idea! I dont know what kind of tape I had like that, but I keep forgetting to get more, thanks for telling me the brand and style =) I had a roll of something similar, or maybe same stuff. I got it from work a few years ago from an electrician.

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« Last Edit: September 07, 2011, 12:53:11 pm by avision4u2liveby »
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