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Offline HelitrooperTopic starter
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« on: August 11, 2014, 03:10:25 am »
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Hi Guys, I made a Hammerhead detector with a 10 1/2 inch coil using a shell I bought off the net, I potted the coil in resin and it looks a fairly decent job, but after a while in use it really makes my arm twitch due to the weight of the thing. I guess as light as possible is best but just how heavy are the commercial ones? I've looked on various different supplier's sites but none of them list the weights.

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« Reply #1 on: August 11, 2014, 05:24:05 am »
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  Resin was the problem.   Other compounds are much lighter.

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Offline xavier
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« Reply #2 on: August 11, 2014, 05:49:24 am »
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I use the battery as a counter weight, I can swing the machine for hours on end. Another thing that you must make sure of is that your shaft is the right length, too short and your back will start to hurt and too long your arm will get tiered.   

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So many questions so little time
Offline GoldDigger1950
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« Reply #3 on: August 11, 2014, 05:52:18 am »
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I use resin based epoxy to seal the coil by brushing it on the coil. That keeps all the wires from shifting since I work it into the windings as I brush it on. I don't fill the coil with it though. I use builder's foam over that and let it harden. Then I cut and sand the excess off (it expands quite a bit) and seal the result with another brush on coat of epoxy. Works like a charm.

I tried skipping the first epoxy coating and after about 6 months, the coil started acting flaky so I removed the bottom and redid it. The wires can vibrate a bit from the constant expanding and contracting that happens when the TX signal is applied causing instability. I have an idea that CA glue might keep them from wiggling and will try that on my next coil. I'd still use the builder's foam for the filler and epoxy for coating the bottom. I was also thinking that Tool Dip (for rubber handles on tools) might be good as a final coat either instead of or over the epoxy.

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It's all about that moment when metal that hasn't seen the light of day for generations frees itself from the soil and presents itself to me.
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« Reply #4 on: August 11, 2014, 06:54:22 am »
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Truck Bed lining Like Reno works better then Epoxy.   It's flexible.

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Offline GoldDigger1950
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« Reply #5 on: August 11, 2014, 07:42:56 am »
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Quote:Posted by homefire
Truck Bed lining Like Reno works better then Epoxy.   It's flexible.

I just pointed out why you DON'T want it to be flexible, mate. Think about it.

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It's all about that moment when metal that hasn't seen the light of day for generations frees itself from the soil and presents itself to me.
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Offline Homefire
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« Reply #6 on: August 11, 2014, 07:57:22 am »
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  It's not that flexible on the wire.  Tacking the wire down with it water proofs, Keeps them from shifting.   I use it on the bottom of the coil as a Scrub plate too.   When it gets nasty looking you just paint on some more.

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Offline GoldDigger1950
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« Reply #7 on: August 11, 2014, 08:15:29 am »
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The binding on a coil has GOT to be absolute. This is why transformers use varnish or epoxy.

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It's all about that moment when metal that hasn't seen the light of day for generations frees itself from the soil and presents itself to me.
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Offline Homefire
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« Reply #8 on: August 11, 2014, 09:02:19 am »
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Yes , I agree. The Bed Liner is more then Adequate  to do the same.   UV resistant on the out side it does the job.  On the Inside it adheres seeps in the coils and is able to do every thing Epoxy does.  A little more pricey then Epoxy it's cheaper then Commercial Filler.  Worked for a Fiber optic out fit and they used this weird Jelly Crap to water seal and When hardend it would congeal and had a 30 year life around the circuits.  Dialectic, Water Proof Gel would NOT work on detectors.   

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