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Offline Richard Ray
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« Reply #10 on: December 23, 2010, 11:06:21 am »
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Mark:
    I've been rumored dead at least three times in my life, even back to a few years after graduation and returning from my first overseas mission. I may be in bad shape, but still kicking. LOL
   Richard

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« Reply #11 on: December 28, 2010, 06:30:10 pm »
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Richard,

Thanks for the reply. One recommendation I got was:
....Mark..the Phantom is similar to the D-Tex Coin King and the Garrett Groundhog ....if I was you I would try to locate the instruction manuals for either the Coin King or the Groundhog ....I am sure that you can locate a Phantom Manual eventually but that may take a while.....right now you just need enough info to get started.......Joe 
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I found D-Tex details and put together information into a word document (attachment 1).  I have also attached a couple of pics of my detector. I've figured out how to make the mouse in the box squeak,  but neither tuning nor discrimination. Making progress, with help from new friends!

Can you tell me if there is information in the DTex attachment that won't work?  That would help, too.

Just discovered I need to shrink my jpgs to attach (currently 3.5M each). Not an issue - just need time to manipulate. Next project!

Regards, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

Mark

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Offline Richard Ray
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« Reply #12 on: December 28, 2010, 07:57:44 pm »
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Mark:
    If I remember correctly, the D-Tex was totally different, the Groundhog was a little more similar but didn't have the 6 frequency control and more sensitivity that many Phantom detectors had. Is your detector a body mount or a shaft model? I have one Phantom out in my office, (my wife bought it for me from a pawn shop, several years before she passed away, I don't even know if it runs) unfortunately I can't get there. I also have an old D-Tex.
  Have a Happy New Year. May God Bless.
      Richard

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« Reply #13 on: December 28, 2010, 08:37:50 pm »
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Greetings, Richard

The model I have is a Phantom Detector sn 1003-283. The label on the left and right sides indicates Automatic VLF/TR Discriminator 15 KHz.  There are four 9V batteries inside (label says use standard, not alkaline batteries?) and there is a toggle switch on the carry handle that curves over the controls (5 knobs and two switches, plus earphone jack). There is a push button release for the shaft and a 7" coil. The label indicates copyright 1980, Richard Ray. My Dad probably bought it in Houston.  I've got a half dozen good pics, but they are too large to include without modifying the file size. Current limits are 0.5 M and these pics are 3.5M each (sure blow up nice, though).  This has got to be the shaft model - rubber handlebar grip on the tube handle. Body mount has a cuff - right? 

This has the following controls: Tuning - quiet - sound; Power - sensitivity - low to high; Metal (TR) - Discriminate 1-9; Tone - low to high; Auto-Tune (toggle switch) manual-auto; Battery 1-2 (toggle switch); Ground (VLF) decrease-cancel-increase; and the headphone jack in the lower-right corner. The VLF-TR toggle is on the end of the rubber grip.   The Ground control appears to be attached to a multi-turn pot - it doesn't stop at 360 degree turn.

This rascal looks like new, even though it is 30 years old.  I read that you built these to mil spec.  That demonstrates a true craftsman to me. 

The labels indicate "The Treasure Hunter, Inc." and "The Phantom Metal Detector - Manvel, Texas"

Does this ring a bell ;-)?

Regards,
Mark

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« Reply #14 on: December 29, 2010, 01:05:36 am »
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Mark:
    It's one of our shaft type, seem to be any early one, we put out over 4000 machines. They were built to Mil-spec 465, way above the standard of the day. We did this because we were selling machines to the Army for finding unexploded (duds) at proving grounds. And our control module was double DIPPED, rather than sprayed with a moisture barrier to keep the machines from '"drifting" in varying atmosphere conditions. ( drift is caused by humidity. As the humidity goes up, so does the drift and as it goes down the drift goes down).  I'd place one on a test stand in the morning and let various targets mounted on a wheel, pass under it for 12 or more hours, without touching it and it wouldn't drift a bit. Most machines would need constant adjustment. I'm sure that technology has come a long way today... Play with it enough and you'll get it, they're not that complicated....

Richard Ray

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« Reply #15 on: December 29, 2010, 04:16:30 pm »
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Many Thanks for the information, Richard.

I've got pictures re-sized under 500k and these would go well with our discussion so that others can view what you built and contributed to Treasure Hunting several moons ago.

Should be able to find places to practice here on the east side of Dallas.

Regards,

Mark

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« Reply #16 on: December 29, 2010, 05:22:03 pm »
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Mark:
   That's our standard "plain Jane" model. Start by making sure the batteries are fresh, turn POWER knob until there is a SLIGHT sound. Turn the TONE about half way. TUNE until you get a low steady tone. METAL discriminate until you drop out the unwanted metals and read the wanted metals, remember there is a null and a rise in tone. Tune GROUND by holding the coil in the air and lowering it to just above touching the earth. If the tone changes adjust the GROUND knob until there is little or no change.
    That's basic instructions. There is a lot more to fine tuning, practice, practice AND use will get YOU tuned to the art of metal detecting. LOL
    Richard Ray

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« Reply #17 on: December 29, 2010, 06:18:24 pm »
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Great information - Thanks, Richard!

Dr. told me I need to spend more time walking (more exercise) so I reduce the chance of another heart attack.  Got a stent about 8 months ago - completely unplanned or expected.  Now I have no excuses ;-)

God Bless us all,
Mark

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