New guy from Oregon

There is a good spot near Lime right off the freeway for mining too. It belongs to the GPAA now but years ago I got some good gold out of it when it was privately owned.

Where abouts in Id were you?

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Hey there NGFO,

My family lives in Mt Hood, I am in florida. Have you done any diving in oregon ? I have been diving a couple years but only here where the water is nice. I have been thinking of getting cold water certified w/ drysuit. Any recomendations from anyone there that dives ?

zen

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Hi Rebelgtb,
Now that's interesting, you being a camera buff, you maybe able to give some tips on photos of "objects" such as coins badges, etc so I'll start off with a question.
For coins and objects with "relief details" is "oblique" lighting the best method to show all the details of the object???  HH.........Johnnn

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Johnnn photographing metallic objects like coins and the like can be very tricky to get the light just right to bring out details especially without getting areas that are blown out with reflected light.  The type of lighting to use actually depends on the characteristics of the coin and the setups can be kind of tricky.  A couple basics are do not use an onboard camera flash they tend to give an uneven lighting (think top of the coin light and the bottom dark) and they will also over expose more often then not on metallic objects up close. 

One thing is don't use direct light, instead diffuse the light with something like a plastic milk jug or a light white cloth (look up making a lighting box to give you some ideas).  The idea is to soften the light but distribute it evenly over the object being photographed. 

Another method is to block the direct light source and reflect it to the object using a piece of glass over the object that you would photograph through (obviously the glass must be spotless and dead flat).  By changing the angle of the glass you can actually change the amount of light and contrast you get on the object. 

Lastly you need a good camera with a good lens on it and a SOLID mount.  Honestly most point and shoot cameras will not cut it for fine detail and focus.  For best results you want a camera that allows you to control all aspects of taking the photo manually, automatic exposure settings in cameras are set to follow specific rules (like an exposure must have a specific percentage of gray in it) that is why sometimes you take a photo of snow and everything comes out with a gray tinge to it.  A good entry model SLR (Nikon D40, D60, D3000, D5000 or Canon Rebel series) should do a fine job and allow for manual control of exposure settings and focus.  The lens is another huge factor, there are good lenses and garbage lenses.  Just because a lens is inexpensive though does not mean it is garbage.  An example of this is the Nikon 18-55 AFS kit lens, you can buy this lens for $100 and it is universally agreed to be extremely sharp and produces very nice photos.  The last thing you need to do is keep the camera as rock solid steady as you can to preserve the fine details of the photo.  This means an arm or tripod setup to solidly hold the camera and then to further the reduction of movement preferably use a remote release for your shutter as even the slightest touch to push the shutter button on the camera can cause a very slight movement that will eliminate detail in the photo given a slow enough shutter speed.

Idaho the town is west of Boise.  Basically as you are on 84 take the exit for 20-26 and head south I believe it is and go about 4 or 5 miles.       

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Thanks Rebelgtp,
There are a few things there in your info that I haven't tried so I maybe able to improve my pixs.......HH.......Johnnn

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