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Offline Mike In2mudTopic starter
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« on: February 20, 2009, 09:25:49 pm »
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Hi Edouard, I have finally made presentable the ?Strip Board? layout for the ?Bandido II U Max?.
It?s surprising the different considerations I have had to make when presenting the layout for somebody else to build.       Don?t forget to leave some space around the board for fixing holes etc.
Included are: -   Strip Board Layout,      Key to Layout,      Dedicated Schematic.

You can use the Bill of Materials from ?Eugene?s Zip File?; you will notice that some of the component values have been updated. Also no ?decoupling capacitors? have been included on my layout, some should be added where possible across the positive (+V) and negative (-V) tracks.
A ?Battery Condition LED? has been included, which is easily added to the circuit, as shown.
Also a volume control has been added externally for the speaker, so allow for these on the front panel.
Once the circuit is built just use Eugene?s Zip File instructions in the ?Bandido Project? to build the coil, front panel etc.
A Tip,?I find useful when building larger ?Strip Board? circuits, use Good Quality IC holders, at least until the circuit is working, it helps with fault finding to isolate different parts of the board. They rarely work first time.

Please note: - On the Schematic provided, I have hand written the IC pin numbers for my layout, they are different to other drawings, but will not affect the circuit operation.

To read the component values on the circuit go to 

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  ?Metal Detectors / Schematics / Bandido II U Max? for the original Schematic.
   
?Finally? can anyone recommend any software that makes the Strip Board layout process any easier and neater?
I don?t think normal PCB design software would be suitable, because the grid needs to be shown on the layout and the tracks are always cut on the nodes of the grid.

Have fun building, all the best Mike.


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« Last Edit: February 20, 2009, 09:37:27 pm by Mike In2mud »
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Offline Mike In2mudTopic starter
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« Reply #1 on: February 21, 2009, 03:55:17 am »
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IMPORTANT NOTE:- To anyone new to making circuits on 'Strip Board'.
On the 'Bandido' Layout.
The COMPONENT SIDE IS UP and the tracks run underneath left to right.

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« Reply #2 on: February 22, 2009, 08:07:36 pm »
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Wow Mike, that's a nice birthday gift...thanks a lot...
I'll have to look at that a bit closer now, and I'm certain that many are interrested by your  [detecting]schematic
If I manage to build one from that, for shure I'll let you know...once again thank you Mike

I've just had a look at it...and I think that if you wanted it to be perfect, maybe you could give us a list:
R1  value
C1  value
IC ref

because you can't zoom on the picture with the component values, thx thx thx muddy Mike, were you at Woodstock the day
this picture was shot?

this little free program should interest many of you drawing schematics...

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OHHHHHHHHHHH how dumb I am... Embarrassed
sorry Mike, seems your project is ok like that...you said it was diffi to realise for sbdy else, but I'm shure that u couldn't imagine
how stupid I am...I had to read your message 3 times to find the components values, sorry

I also found that

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« Last Edit: March 22, 2009, 04:50:39 pm by Christian »
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« Reply #3 on: February 23, 2009, 10:44:36 am »
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Hi Edouard, sorry the information about the component values is unclear, I guess others may have the same trouble. If you look in the in the Bill of Materials, each component value is marked with how many times it is used and its location on the layout.
I did not add the B.O.M. to the file as it already exists in Eugene?s Bandido Zip file.
I only mentioned the ..original circuit schematic.. because when I called up mine on the screen, the values were not clear to read.
My original paragraph is incorrect and should have read?.
To read the unclear component values on the schematic go to

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?Metal Detectors / Schematics / Bandido II U Max? for the original Schematic.
 
There are a couple of components that I can?t find in ..Farnell..
That is the ..3.5 turn 50k  Pot.. they do make a 10 turn one, but it?s a bit expensive.
The ON-OFF-TEMPORARY switch, may also be a problem.

I think you will notice also that I was drawing the Stripboard layout while I was at Woodstock, you should have seen it before I tided it up.

Thanks for the info on Cad sites to visit. I will get on to them as soon as possible.

Have you built anything on Stripboard before? There is a ..Stripboard Track Cutter.. available.
And use masking tape around the edge to mark the hole grid, remember it?s reversed underneath.

If you have any other problems, just send me a post and I will try and solve it for you.

Have good fun building it, best of luck Mike.


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« Reply #4 on: February 23, 2009, 10:48:13 am »
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components list:

R1-1.2K  R2-12K  R3-20K  R4-47K  R5-??  R6-??  R7-??  R8-200K  R9-100K  R10-100K  R11-200K  R12-430K
R13-1K  R14-20K  R15-5.1K  R16-150K  R17-100K  R18-150K  R19-82K  R20-1K  R21-10K  R22-22K  R23-100K
R24-??  R25-20K  R26-5.1K  R27-5.1K  R28-100K  R29-100K  R30-1K  R31-20K  R32-20K  R33-20K  R34-47K
R35-??  R36-100K  R37-100K  R38-2.7M  R39-200K  R40-2.7M  R41-470K  R42-1K  R43-1M  R44-??  R45-1M
R46-5.1K  R47-47K  R48-47K  R49-620K  R50-620K  R51-10K  R52-150K  R53-1K  R54-4.7K  R55-4.7K
R56-1M  R57-1K  R58-200K  R59-200K  R60-2.2K  R61-100K  R62-20K  R63-100K  R64-10K  R65-??  R66-200K
R67-??  R68-??  R69-27K  R70-10K

C1-470nf  C2-47nf  C3-??  C4-??  C5-??  C6-220?f  C7-10?f  C8-220?f  C9-100pf  C10-22pf  C11-??  C12-180pf
C13-10pf  C14-8.2pf  C15-33nf  C16-39pf  C17-220nf  C18-22pf  C19-100nf  C20-100nf  C21-100nf  C22-10nf  C23-10nf  C24-10nf  C25-100nf  C26-??  C27-??  C28-10nf  C29-10nf  C30-0.47?f  C31-0.47?f  C32-22nf 
C33-22nf  C34-100nf  C35-10nf  C36-100nf  C37-0.47?f  C38-4.7?f  C39-4.7?f  C40-??

I do miss R5-R6-R7-R24-R35-R44-R65-R67-R68 and C3-C4-C5-C11-C26-C27-C40  values and position


It's gonna be a real step by step Violent ...for me, I'm glad u help Wise

on your stripboard picture, is it shown components side or strips side?

I'll also have questions about "decoupling capacitors"   yes Mike, first time I do Huh?

EEEeeuh... Huh? your strips are horizontal?     :Smiley

and this one is great: LochMaster   it is demo but great

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« Last Edit: March 22, 2009, 04:53:26 pm by Christian »
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« Reply #5 on: February 24, 2009, 05:55:03 am »
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Something I forgot to mention, some ..links.. run underneath the IC's they need to be fitted first, before the IC's.

Decoupling Capacitors are fitted to stop noise on a circuit, on a normal circuit they are fitted as close to an IC as possible. I forgot to do this when I laid out the Strip Board circuit, so we will have to find where the positive (+V) and negative (-V) tracks run close together and fit them there.
regards Mike.

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« Reply #6 on: February 25, 2009, 08:24:57 pm »
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Hi Edouard, I have looked at the software you posted, I do like the LochMaster one, it looks very realistic and easy to understand.

If you have not built a ..Strip board.. circuit before, you are being ..Very Ambitious.. with this one, but provided you take it slowly and try and think ahead, you should be Ok.
If you put all the  ..IC holders.. in first, with just a  touch of solder on two opposite corners of the holder, until you are sure they are in the right place. This will help you to work out the position of the other track cuts with more certainty. Make all the track cuts at this stage.

Lift any IC holders that need Links, pass the link out of the end of the holder and not between the IC pins (only shown in the drawing for clarity). Leave the other links until after the components are fitted.
You will need a copy of the Bill of Materials, the Schematic and the Layout to mark off as you go.

My apologies if I am stating the obvious here, but I am trying to help, if you have not done it before.

All the best Mike. Great


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« Reply #7 on: February 26, 2009, 09:02:28 am »
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No Mike, you're not standing the obvious...
I now know strips are going horizontal, but still don't know if your layout is stripside or component side...
I bought this (I bought 2 just in case of...)


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« Reply #8 on: February 26, 2009, 09:06:11 am »
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As you can see, I've got holes every 2.5mm...
I now wanna buy components, but I had a look on Farnell and others,...they ask if u want Condensator in 63V 100V or more...the less is 16V I think
Can I buy a 16V? or is it too much?
Can I buy a 63V?  The board is powered with 9V?isn't it?

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« Reply #9 on: February 26, 2009, 10:18:28 am »
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You can use higher voltage parts than your supply, not lower. You may find the 63V part is cheaper than a 16V part, so go for the 63V one. Try to stick to the component types - if it says ceramic capacitor, get ceramic. There is more to it than just capacitance values, but I don't want to bog you down with technical details.

Before you power the board up, make sure you buzz the circuit out with a multimeter to check for shorts or open circuits. If you aren't careful, you can leave thin slivers of copper after breaking the tracks.

Good luck with your build, I rmember my first soldering builds being a bit daunting, but it's the best way to learn.

Colin

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