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Offline Mike In2mudTopic starter
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« Reply #60 on: May 22, 2009, 05:28:59 pm »
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Hi Edouard,
The diodes are all the same type, you will see a line or dark coloured end on the diode, that end goes to the diode circuit symbol end with the point and the line.

The large blue capacitors that you have bought have an arrow with a - (minus) symbol pointing to one end that is the - (minus) end, they may be too big I am not sure. if you have to change them look for a type with the pins coming out of the same end

The small red capacitors look ok, but the larger red capacitor, the pin spacing is too wide (5mm is ideal).

The capacitors on the circuit that do not have a + or - can go either way around

Have you cut the tracks on the back of the 'stripboard' it will be very difficult to cut later on.

Looking at your photos, you have a nice small soldering iron and so far, your circuit looks very similar to mine at that stage, the resistors look ok (not too big). You need to add some capacitors to get the positions correct, if you add the components in small groups before soldering them in, to see how they fit you may have to re-arrange them slightly.

It doesn't look as if you have put any links in under the IC sockets,that needs to be done now, use single strand wire if possible as stray ends cause problems later.

I cannot think of anything else for now, Mike.

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Offline Delamuerte
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« Reply #61 on: May 22, 2009, 07:02:42 pm »
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Hi Mike,
can I solder some of the wires running on the top of my board?or must they all run under?
I'll soon "Dremel" my  tracks cut; but I think there was an extra one you talked about...I'll have to check that.
Couldn't find your R18, R24 and R69 on schematic.
Thx for diode and capacitors info, can go on now...soon some pictures


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« Reply #62 on: May 22, 2009, 07:44:25 pm »
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http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/CD/CD4066BC.pdf


Call them all up on gOOgle.  You will find out what they are.

Some are going to be a bit old and hard to find.

Let me know and I or others will see if we can proviede them.

Jim

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Offline davidbat40
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« Reply #63 on: May 23, 2009, 12:42:35 am »
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finaly got stripboard
coil from laser hawkeye
most componets been givern
ic's i have only 2 from old electronic kit
brother is home tuesday giving some help then will start on board then

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Offline Mike In2mudTopic starter
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« Reply #64 on: May 23, 2009, 05:42:11 pm »
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I think I understand you Edouard, all the links run over the top of the board and are pushed through the correct holes to be soldered underneath,  none run on the track side at all.

...A tip... do not pull the links across the board too tight it makes placing of components easier...

Be careful with the 'Dremel' you only need to remove the track, do not go through the board, there is a special hand tool for cutting tracks it is like a drill bit with a handle, but the tip is machined at a different angle.
R18 is not on the stripboard, but is wired with the speaker, R69 goes to IC5 pin 6 and is on the layout, I cannot see R24 either.

Ok Mike,


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« Reply #65 on: May 23, 2009, 06:24:19 pm »
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I use a drill bit the width of the track!   Just rest it in the hole and turn it twice and the job is done.

I would make a mess with the dremel tool! Tongue

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Offline Delamuerte
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« Reply #66 on: May 24, 2009, 11:47:43 am »
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Well, I'am now ok with the track cuts...now soldering my diodes, but wondering if D7A and D7B must be soldered up side down (+ and - on the same line); same question for the D8A and D8B...
Concerning the D10, close to the R56, is the + down (close to the red point)?
So 3 are close to the CI 1, 2 are close to the C4, 2 close to the C8, 2 close to the CI 10, 1 close to the R56, the last one seems to be D6, close to R12, is the - on the blue line(up)?


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« Reply #67 on: May 24, 2009, 12:36:26 pm »
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Positive links are now done...

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« Reply #68 on: May 24, 2009, 05:43:00 pm »
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got my links done as well...seems that the plastic shield of the wire retracts when u solder...be quick...or be dead

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« Reply #69 on: May 24, 2009, 06:49:27 pm »
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and now my negative done...(white and black)

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